Wednesday, May 05, 2004

Traveloguette: Tsukiji Fish Market

Thought I'd put up some of the photos from my Dec '03 trip. This installment features some shots from the famous Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo. All photos unedited save for resizing (no cropping either, was too lazy).

Having woken up late (6am) that morning, we took the Oedo subway line to Tsukijishijo station. After a few minutes of confusion, we spotted several people wearing rubber boots and pulling trolleys, and followed them towards the fish market. Through the dim, spotlit aisles we walked, headed for the tuna auctions at the far end of the compound.

walking through the aisles of the fish market
Don't mind us, we're just tourists

The sun had yet to peek over the horizon, but it quickly became apparent that we'd already missed most of the fresh tuna auction action. We did manage to find some frozen tuna auctions still underway, though.

In rubber boots and jockey caps, nylon jackets and cargo pants, hopeful buyers thronged the room, inspecting tuna cutaways with their picks and hooks, jotting down for bidding the numbers painted in red on each prospective carcass.

throngs of buyers inspecting hulks of tuna and taking numbers
Barely enough to go around

standing on a raised platform, the auctioneer raises his hand for attention before launching into a new auction
Now hear this...

In the above shot, one of many auctioneers holding court. Bouncing animatedly up and down on a small stand, he called out tuna numbers to the crowd of waiting buyers. By that time (6:50am) many of the better fish had already been sold, loaded on the ubiquitous market trolley-cart, and hauled away.

a man waiting on his cart for his companion, who presumably is making more purchases at the auctions
Wait for fish?

As we made our way out of the auction area and back through the market, several stallowners were busy preparing their wares - fish and eel, crab and abalone, oyster and sea urchin, and more. In one stall, three men were discussing how to make the next cut in a big, juicy chunk of tuna, while the center man stood ready holding the large chopping knife used to slice the fish.

three men looking over a big piece of tuna, quartered lengthwise. the middle man (obscured) holds the big knife
Too much to the right again?

this man guts a much smaller fish on a chopping board.
It takes a delicate hand, you know

Once out of the fish market area, we had to stay alert as trolley-carts and vans zipped past in a seemingly unending stream of motorized traffic, reckless and swift. The carts slipped around obstacles effortlessly, narrowly avoiding collisions, drivers accustomed to the routine.

a trolley cart driven by a japanese man with a cigarette in his mouth, moving fast on the road.
King of the market road

With help from Frommers, we located a small, crowded sushi-bar restaurant called Sushi Dai, nestled along one of the shophouse rows across from the fish market. Not too pricy, and the fish was oh-so-fresh! What better way to end a visit to Tsukiji than with a sushi breakfast? :)

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